T4
Date: 09/06/2024
Partner: Kristi Henes
Trailhead: Yankee Boy Basin
Distance: 4 Miles
Elevation Gain: 2700ft
Duration: 6hrs 45min
GPX
Before attempting the Block Top Traverse I wanted to climb T4 on it's own and get a view of the X-Traverse.
A week after climbing T1, T2 and attempting T4, I returned to the scene with Kristi armed with two 30m Rad Lines and information from Boggy's Mountain Project report.
Kristi and I ascended Gilpin's northwest gully, climbed T4's sketchy east aspect, contoured around the corner from the pitons and found a channel that leads up to the solid 5.0 chimney described in Boggy's report.
chimenychimeny
The chimney was relatively easy to climb and descend. The channel below the chimney was a little more challenging but doable.
Before we knew it we were on the summit.
We enjoyed the incredible perch, scouted the rappel to the T4/T3 saddle and got a good look at the sketchy X-Traverse.
We then retraced our steps back down to the pitons lower on the mountain.
Once back at the pitons, we added a quicklink and some new webbing to the anchor and descended the sketchy pitches on rappel.
Using the rope here was significantly more time consuming but felt much safer. I carried the rope with me as I descended and was careful not to pull any loose debris down on top of me. The 60m rope was about perfect.
Once we were both down, the rope got stuck when we attempted to pull but had to re-climb 20ft or so to free it.
Mission accomplished! We tagged Gilpin before heading back to the truck.
![Block tops t4 map]()
4m - 2700ft - 6hrs 45min
![Block tops recon 03]()
Kristi taking in the first views of T4 from below the Sneffels/Gilpin saddle
![Block tops recon 21]()
Kristi ascends Gilpin's north gully with Sneffels looking on
![Block tops recon 22]()
Looking across to T4 and the nasty never again gully I climbed on the first recon day
![Block tops recon 23]()
T4 looking as mean as it is. T3 right of center in the sun
![Block tops recon 24]()
T4 changing shape as we get higher. The rotten first half of the climb in full view
![Block tops recon 26]()
T4 from above a class 4 down climb from the Gilpin saddle. T2 behind on the left
![Block tops recon 27]()
Looks simple enough in the photo!
![Block tops recon 28]()
As you approach the base of T4 it gets steeper and you begin to realize how rotten it is
![Block tops recon 29]()
On my first recon day I contoured around the ledge below T4 to see if there were any other ascent options. Didn't find anything but this view of T2 and the route around it's south side
![Block tops recon 30]()
Looks fun and blocky but these steps and holds are not to be trusted
![Block tops recon 31]()
Careful, gentle, patient climbing to better terrain a few hundred feet up
![Block tops recon 32]()
Kristi climbing on some solid terrain to the channel that leads to the chimney
![Block tops recon 33]()
The channel to the chimney has some loose feet but pretty good hands
![Block tops recon 34]()
The solid and relatively easy to climb/descend 5.0 chimney
![Block tops recon 35]()
Alex in the chimney
![Block tops recon 36]()
Kristi pops out of the chimney
![Block tops recon 37]()
Last pitch of slippery dinner plates to T4's summit
![Block tops recon 38]()
Stoked!
![Block tops recon 39]()
Kristi on the exposed scramble to the rap station that takes you to the T4/T3 saddle
![Block tops recon 40]()
The drilled in anchor and cord (in good shape as of 9/6/24) on T4's west side
![Block tops recon 41]()
Looking across to T3 from the T4 rap station
![Block tops recon 42]()
Looking to the T4/T3 saddle from the rap station. "The X-Traverse is the higher yellow streak starting at the light/shadow line heading down to right. Following that face to the right, where the sun comes through on that tan block with a little capstone/point, that's the top of the 5.6 pitch at T3's NE corner. Hidden behind that is a nasty loose gash. Potentially easier routes farther to the right (cracked block area in photo). However you really don't want to traverse any farther than necessary. The X-Traverse could be rapped but might be ugly." ~BoggyB~
![Block tops recon 42g]()
Amy Gray-Smith and Boggy midway through the X-Traverse. PC: Kurt Blair Although Kristi and I did not traverse from T4 to T3 I thought this shot would give you a good perspective of this section. Thanks for the picture Amy!
![Block tops recon 42k]()
The X-Traverse between T4 and T3
![Block tops recon 43]()
Kristi at the rap station with T3 behind
![Block tops recon 44]()
Time to head down - Alex on the slippery dinner plates that litter T4s summit
![Block tops recon 45]()
Making our way back to the chimney
![Block tops recon 46]()
Kristi and her best Santa impression
![Block tops recon 47]()
Kristi in a tricky spot at the bottom of the chimney
![Block tops recon 48]()
Back at the pitons above T4's loose east aspect. We added a quicklink and some new webbing
![Block tops recon 49]()
Descending this pitch on rappel took some time and care but was much easier than down climbing solo.
![Block tops recon 50]()
Kristi close to the bottom of the rap
![Block tops recon 51]()
The chosseneering isn't quite over
![Block tops recon 52]()
Looking down the gully I climbed on recon day one. Dont do it! At least Sneffels looks good.
![Block tops recon 53]()
After Kristi and I climbed T4 we hit Gilpin for good measure. Western views from the summit
![Block tops recon 54]()
One last photo op with T4
![Block tops recon 55]()
Gilpin's north gully isn't great but compared to T4 it is merely child's play
![Block tops recon 56]()
It's good to be back on solid ground
