Little Finger
Date: 08/31/2025
Partner: J Weingast
Trailhead: Ruby Basin Camp
Distance: 5.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 1600ft
Duration: 7.5hrs
GPX
The unedited GPX track was useless because of 'noise' and a bouncing single higher on the mountain. I truncated the track so it is at least helpful on the approach.
Little Finger is one of the 9 peaks J and I climbed as a part of our 5 day Needles and Fingers trip. This overview summarizes the trip and includes links to reports for the other peaks we climbed.
Maybe it was Little Finger's numbers that had me under estimating the mountain? I mean 5 miles, 1600ft and a few pitches of 5.7/5.8. Little Finger definitely looks intimidating... but my head wasn't around that.
What we found during the climb would put me into the right headspace.
What we found was that Little Finger is one of the more amazing, challenging and adventurous mountains in the state.
The approach is navigational and has spots that will catch your attention. We were constantly evaluating our route decisions.
The climb itself is unique, engaging and sporty. I was challenged on both 5.8 crux sections. Gear placement is tricky.
In addition, navigating the climb was also engaging. Up the west chimney, down and over to the east chimney, then across to the summit pitch. We discussed route options all the way to the top.
If I had to describe Little Finger in one word it would be Adventure with a capital A. While the climbing itself wasn't as difficult as The Index or Sunlight Spire... it took all of the skills and a lot of teamwork to get to the top.
Probably my favorite excert from any trip report is Boggy's description of Little Finger's east chimney:
"This pitch affords the opportunity to experience the curious essence of Little Finger: it is simply a huge gravel sculpture, crafted by the eons, and bound together by a magic spell that is broken only by human touch."
For all of these reasons I think Little Finger is one of my favorites. Have fun on this one!
Gear:
- 70m 8mm rope
- a set of basic nuts
- BD cams .4, .5, 3, 4
- assortment of runners and slings
A big shout out to the folks who authored the following trip reports. They were critical in our planning process... thank you!
Steve Gladbach & Peter Blank
Boggy B & Amy Blazintoes
Once were were off the mountain and back at camp, we ate dinner and packed out to Needleton. The next morning we caught the train to Silverton and hitchhiked back to the truck in Durango.
This wrapped up one of the best mountain trips I have been on. Definitely stoked on this one!
![Little finger 01]()
5.2m - 1600ft - 7.5hrs
![Little finger 01h]()
Gear: a set of basic nuts, .4, .5, 3, 4, BD cams, set of 4 Omega link cams, assortment of runners/slings. 70m 8mm rope. Didn't bring the pictured #5s
![Little finger 02]()
The layout of the land - image captured descending into Ruby Basin from Peak Twelve
![Little finger 03]()
The north face of Little Finger... the climb on the south face
![Little finger 04]()
Access gully to Little Finger's south face is on the left - Image captured from Animas
![Little finger 06]()
The gully to the south side of Little Finger is 'read and run'. Some spots are loose others are fine. Kinda nasty. From the top of the gully we contoured around Little Finger's east ridge before cutting back and finding a route to gain the ridge
![Little finger 06d]()
From the top of the access gully, getting to the base of the west chimney on the south face was navigational and challenging. We contoured around the east ridge before cutting back and scrambling up some trashy gravel covered terrain to gain the ridge. Just before gaining the ridge, there was a short nasty section up a steep pinch on loose and committing rock. Note to self... wouldn't want to down climb it
![Little finger 06g]()
J on Little Finger's east ridge above the nasty section
![Little finger 06h]()
J admires Little Finger before descending this little section and continuing to contour around to the south face
![Little finger 06h3]()
Little Finger from the east ridge
![Little finger 06i]()
We dropped this steep gravely chute and contoured around to Little Finger's southwest corner
![Little finger 08]()
Ball bearings on hardpan.. fun stuff!
![Little finger 08h]()
J seems to have it down... warranty on the pants is still pending
![Little finger 10]()
From Little Finger's southwest corner we found the west chimney that splits the south face
![Little finger 11]()
P1: We climbed to the right and around the chockstones. Above the chockstones there is a nice spot to prep for the second pitch. P2 starts with a cruxy 18ft 5.8 wall. There is an old piton to clip for the first piece of gear however above that protection is marginal and sparse
![Little finger 12]()
Looking up the west chimney - gear placements did not inspire confidence
![Little finger 13]()
The climbing was fun, interesting and awkward but not overly difficult. Trust the feet on the nubs
![Little finger 14]()
We climbed to just below the pictured chockstone and exited the west chimney to the right. Upon exiting, we found ourselves on a rib that divides the west chimney from the east chimney
![Little finger 15]()
Exiting the west chimney was a sporty 5.8. A fall here (even on top rope) would result in a big swing and possibly decking in the chimney below. Once out of the west chimney, we did a short exposed down climb into the east chimney and continued up
![Little finger 16]()
In the east chimney, when confronted with route options, we tended to climb left. This is the last pitch in the east chimney. At the top we exited left and found ourselves on a table top below the final summit pitch
![Little finger 17]()
The final pitch to the summit
![Little finger 18]()
J on Little Finger's exposed summit fin
![Little finger 19]()
Beyond stoked!
![Little finger 20]()
From the summit, we rappelled the west chimney top to bottom
![Little finger 20h]()
Into the west chimney
![Little finger 21]()
J in the West Chimney - West Eolus calling our names from behind
![Little finger 23]()
Take care as there are a couple spots that would be easy to get a rope stuck. In fact our rope got hung up on a chockstone and required some scrambling to free it
![Little finger 25]()
Rapping the chockstone where our rope got hung up
![Little finger 26]()
Once out of the west chimney, we descended south and found a rap station that would take us to easier terrain. We were excited to not have to retrace our approach route along the east ridge
![Little finger 27]()
Final rap of the day below Little Finger's south face
![Little finger 28]()
Making turns in the hero scree at the top of the access gully
![Little finger 29]()
The hero scree was fun... but most of the gully is pure bs
![Little finger 30]()
Fired up and hungry! We returned to camp, ate dinner and packed out to Needleton. The next morning we caught the train to Silverton and hitchhiked to our car in Durango
