Gray Needles & Noname Needle
Date: 08-28-2025
Partner: J Weingast
Start: Lower Noname Camp
Summits:
* Gray Needle (1953)
* Gray Needle (Coke Bottle)
* Nonname Needle
Distance: 7.2m
Elevation Gain: 3340ft
Duration: 12hrs 45min
GPX
Gray Needle 14ers.com Page
Noname Needle 14ers.com Page
Gray Needle(1953), Gray Needle (Coke Bottle) and Noname Needle are three of the 9 peaks J and I climbed as a part of our 5 day Needles and Fingers trip. This overview summarizes the trip and includes links to reports for the other peaks we climbed.
Over the years Gray Needle has been surrounded by mystery, allure and controvesy. So much so, that before getting into the trip report itself, I would like to lay it all out. Understanding Gray Needle's history, just might change how you tackle the mountain(s)... it did for us!
The Mystery and Controversy of Gray Needle
Climbing Gray Needle and Noname Needle was the first objective on our 5 day quest to climb a handful of the Weminuche's most badass and seldom climbed mountains. Gray Needle(s), Noname Needle, The Index and Little Finger.
Gear:
- 70m 8mm rope
- A set of basic nuts
- BD cams .4, .5, 3, 4 and two 5s
- assortment of runners and slings
Although we had three towers to climb (Gray Needle 1953, Gray Needle Coke Bottle, Noname Needle), we agreed that we would wait for first light to start. There is some potential bushwhacking between the lower camp and the upper basin... no need to do that in the dark.
We made efficient work getting to the base of Gray Needle 1953. We hiked into the upper basin, up a grassy ledge system and around to the north side of Noname Ridge. Special thanks to Boggy for the beta!
We dropped our packs on friendly terrain and scrambled to the base of the climb. The climb is broken into two pitches that we climbed as one. The climbing was stout and I thugged my way to the summit behind J's impressive lead.
There is a sizeable porch like ledge between the two pitches. From the porch you have a choice between a left and right crack. We both chose left.
The summit views were amazing and we were stoked to potentially be the third party to ever reach this summit.
The Gray Needle North Chimney report includes a more technical desription of the climbing.
With two more towers to go we rappelled down the north face and scrambled back to our packs.
Next stop Gray Needle (Coke Bottle)!
From the base of Gray Needle 1953 we retraced our steps back to the south side of Noname Ridge and scrambled to the base of Gray Needle (Coke Bottle's) south face.
The climbing on Gray Needle (Coke Bottle) went at 5.7/5.8 and was significantly easier than Gray Needle 1953. We climbed in two roped pitches plus a short scramble to the summit before rappelling back down.
The Mystery of the Missing Tat report includes a more technical desription of the climbing.
From the base of Gray Needle (Coke Bottle) we hiked higher into the drainage over steep terrain to find a crack system at the base of Noname Needle's west face (5.8). Up we went!
The climbing on the Noname's cracks was solid and fun... even for a neophyte crack climber like me hahaha!
At the top of the crack system there is a short class 4ish scramble to the summit. It took us awhile to find the class 4 route and we ended up roping up before we found it.
The Secrets of Gray Needle report includes a more technical description of the climbing.
After some quality time on our third and final summit of the day, we scrambled down to the top of the crack system and set up our rappel. Consistent with parties before us, there was no evidence of previous webbing or cord. Is there another mystery brewing on Noname Ridge?
The hike back to camp went smoothly and we made it back just before dark. The sunset on the surrounding mountains was magical... what a great start to our big adventure!
The next morning we packed up and moved camp to Ruby Basin over Peak Twelve.
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7.2m - 3340ft - 12hrs 45min from the 'lower camp' - we did not stay at the upper camp on this trip
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70m 8mm rope, a set of basic nuts, BD cams( .4, .5, 3, 4, 5) - assortment of runners and slings
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Southern aspect of Noname Ridge from Peak Ten. We climbed GN 1953, GN Coke Bottle and Noname Needle
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Getting the morning started - J crossing the meadow close to the upper camp - we did not stay at the upper camp on this trip. Monitor, Thirteen and Animas in the sunrise light
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Great views of Peak Ten(L) and Knife Point (R) from the upper camp - we did not stay at the upper camp on this trip
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Gray Needle(L) towers above Noname Basin - Peak Ten's west ridge on the right
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Entering into the southern branch Naname Basin between Noname Ridge and Peak Ten - Peak Five and Four in the sun
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We ascended the basin until we found a grassy ledge system on the left
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J ascending the grassy ledges - Peak Ten behind
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Views up to Noname Ridge - Wonder which one is Gray Needle 1953?
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At the top of the grassy ledges, we wrapped around to the north side of Noname Ridge
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Looking for our tower on the north side of the ridge.
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We scrambled up here
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There she is!
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We roped up here. J climbed the two pitches to the summit in one go. The first pitch was stout with overhangs, offwidth cracks and sharp rock. P1 terminates to a sizable flat balcony like platform. From the ledge choose between a left or right crack to the summit. Both options are stiffer than P1. We both chose left
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Holy smokes... some of the tougher climbing I have done. Stoked to be on the summit of Gray Needle 1953!
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Good chance we were the third party to summit this!
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Looking east up Noname Ridge from the summit
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Southwest views to Ruby Basin. Turret, Fifteen, Sixteen and Little Finger. The next day we moved camp over this pass to climb The Index and Little Finger
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Southwest views over Peak Ten to Sunlight and Windom
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Peak Ten
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Westerly Weminuche views
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Rappelling from the summit to scrambly terrain below. Our stashed packs in view
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Next stop Gray Needle (Coke Bottle)! From GN 1953 we descended back down the grassy ledges, did a high contouring traverse and ascended this gully through class 3 terrain to the base of the climb
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J gearing up for what would be a significantly easier climb than GN 1953 maybe 5.7/5.8
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Last little bit to the summit
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From the top of the climb there is a short scramble to the summit
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Hats off all ya'll!!! Ooooh... looks like Clint uncovered some of the mystery!!!
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Peak Ten on the right... Sunlight, Sunlight Spire and Windom off in the distance
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A glance east up Noname ridge toward our next stop... Noname Needle
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Dropping Gray Needle (Coke Bottle)
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From the bottom of GN (Coke Bottle), we ascended further up the main drainage and ascended this gully to the base of Noname Needle's west face climb 5.8
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In search of the 5.8 crack system at the base of Noname Needle's west face
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J starts up the crack
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J at the top of the first pitch... my turn now!
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From the top of the first pitch we roped up and climbed easier terrain to the summit. We found easier terrain on return that did not require a rope
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J summits Noname Needle
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Me, J and Jagged!
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Beep me on my cellphone! Great views from the table top of Noname Needle's summit
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Southwestern views to the giants of Ruby Basin where we would head the following day
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One last look at Jagged... can't get enough of this mountain
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The Vestal Group to the northwest
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A scramble down to the top of the first pitch
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J getting his rap on
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Rappelling what we climbed
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Alex on rappel
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Back down the main drainage then trace our footsteps back to camp. If you find a pair of shades back here they most likely belong to J
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Looking back to Gray Needle(L), Peak Ten, and Knife Point(far R)
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Sunset light and southern views to the pass between Sunlight and Needle Ridge. What day!!!
