Glacier Point/Twin Thumbs/Needle Ridge
Date: 09/13/2024
Partner: Kristi Henes
Trailhead: Chicago Basin Camp
Summits:
* Glacier Point
* Twin Thumbs North
* Needle Ridge
Distance: 6.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 4230ft
Duration: 9hrs 50min
GPX
Glacier Point 14ers.com Page
Twin Thumbs North 14ers.com Page
Needle Ridge 14ers.com Page
The initial plan was to start on Needle Ridge and work our way west to Twin Thumbs and finish up with Glacier Point. We wanted to climb the toughest peaks first.
However it was quite chilly when we reached Twin Lakes that morning and we decided to reverse the order and give the rock some time to warm up before getting on Needle Ridge.
Kristi opted to head straight to Twin Thumbs while I tagged Glacier Point.
Glacier Point was straight forward with some short and easy class 3 before gaining it's south ridge. Great views of Chicago Basin from this one. After Glacier Point I met up with Kristi at the base of Twin Thumbs North.
Twin Thumbs North was an easy class 3 scramble with one exposed 5.2 move that was tricky.
We knew Needle Ridge was going to be tougher from a technical and navigational perspective. With that in mind and the day ticking along we opted to skip Twin Thumbs South and head straight to Needle Ridge... the main event of the day.
Needle Ridge was an adventure. The first pitch was steep, loose and exposed class 4. For us, this was the crux of the day and wasn't so fun to climb or down climb. The rest of the ridge was solid, navigational and fun with a mix of class 3, 4 and low 5. What a cool place to be! We brought a 30m 8mm rope, a few nuts and a .5, #1 and #2 cam.
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 01]()
6.4 miles - 4230ft - 9hrs 50min
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 02]()
From Twin Lakes L2R: Twin Thumbs, Peak Eleven, Needle Ridge, Sunlight Peak
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 03]()
Peak Eleven (far right), Twin Thumbs (left) from Twin Lakes
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 04]()
Kristi hiking up the grassy slope with Aztec behind
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 05]()
Route to Glacier Point is up the grassy slope and to the left
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 06]()
After a bit of scrambling I reached Glacier's south ridge - it was a quick jaunt to the summit from there
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 07]()
Eolus (L) and North Eolus (L) from Glacier Point
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 08]()
Looking down Glacier Point's south ridge - Twin Lakes below
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 09]()
A great view of Chicago Basin from Glacier's south ridge. L2R: Needle Ridge, Sunlight Peak, Sunlight Spire, Windom, South Windom, Jupiter, Peak Eighteen in the lower middle
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 09h]()
More from Glacier's south ridge. L2R: Peak Eleven, Needle Ridge, Sunlight, Sunlight Spire
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 10]()
Next stop Twin Thumb North (high point in the center of the image). I would meet up with Kristi to climb this one. Jagged behind, Peak Eleven right
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 11]()
Twin Thumbs North is up and through the goal posts and behind Twin Thumbs South which is on the left in this shot
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 12]()
Kristi starts up Twin Thumbs North - harness on
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 13]()
The crux of Twin Thumbs North - A tricky and exposed 5.2 move
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 14]()
Twin Thumbs South from Twin Thumbs North
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 15]()
Eastern views from the summit - Peak Eleven, Sunlight and Windom
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 16]()
Down climbing Twin Thumbs North
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 17]()
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 18]()
Although not mandatory, we decided to rap the 5.2 crux. The down climb would be easier than the climb on this section
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 19]()
A good view of the 5.2 crux - exposure not shown
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 20]()
Kristi raps the crux - might be just as easy to down climb
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 21]()
Heading back down to Twin Lakes - Next stop Needle Ridge
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 22]()
Hero surfing
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 23]()
Walking around Twin Lakes
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 24]()
Needle Ridge in full view
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 25]()
En route to Needle Ridge
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 26]()
The summit is the third tower - high point in the middle of this image
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 27]()
Up the gully to the Needle Ridge / Sunlight saddle
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 28]()
Ascending the gully - Peak Eighteen behind
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 29]()
Jagged from the saddle
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 30]()
The first pitch to the ridge and first tower was steep, loose and kinda sketchy. Although it was only class 4, I thought this was the crux. Wasn't looking forward to down climbing this section.
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 31]()
Lots of rotten rock on this section
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 32]()
Up the loose and exposed first pitch to the ridge
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 33]()
We climbed sections of the first pitch one at a time to avoid rock fall - Jagged on the right
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 34]()
Looking for solid rock
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 35]()
From the top of the first section we descended to the north side of the ridge.
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 36]()
The exposed low 5 descent from the top of the first pitch could be down climbed or rappelled
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 37]()
After the exposed down climb / rap we traversed the ridge to a short 5th class off width crack below the second tower. The crack is on Kristi's left. The third tower and summit is on the top right of this image
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 38]()
Kristi protects the start of the off width crack which was short and relatively easy. We did not climb to the top of the second tower. Instead we down climbed a class 3 gully to the notch between the second and third towers.
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 39]()
From the notch we climbed unprotected on solid low 5 rock to the top of the third tower
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 40]()
A fun little tunnel feature to climb through midway up the third tower
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 41]()
The summit of the third tower is an exposed block. We placed protection in the crack on the left and stepped up and across to the right before climbing up and tagging the summit. The moves were not difficult but the exposure was big in all directions.
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 42]()
Heading back down the third tower
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 43]()
Needle Ridge is an awesome place to be... if feels other worldly. A great view of Sunlight Peak towering above.
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 44]()
Retracing our steps back across the ridge was fun but the thought of down climbing that first pitch was in the back of my mind.
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 45]()
Ok... time to pay the piper... down climbing the nasty first pitch
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 46]()
Carefully down climbing the first pitch
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 47]()
One at a time
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 48]()
Back down to the saddle
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 49]()
and back to Twin Lakes
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 50]()
Kristi soaking it all in - Needle Ridge looking pretty badass behind
![Needle ridge twin thumb glacier 51]()
What a day! Time to head back to camp
